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Posted 20 hours ago

Galvanised Tensioning Straining Line Wire | 3.15mm x 160m | 12 gauge

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

When the posts are firmly set, unroll the coil of straining wire and feed it along/through the posts. The number of line wires required depends on the height of the fence, as a guide:

Unlike North American fences, where tie wires are often pre-bent (and used to secure the mesh to line posts and top rails), tie wire in warm weather mesh fences is used to tie the mesh to the straining wires. All fencing installations should have a line wire installed at the top to stop the fencing sagging and keep it taut. We also recommend a line wire be installed at ground level to stop people, or browsing animals from crawling or digging underneath. For meshes above 1.2 metres we would advise an additional galvanised line wire be installed in the middle as well and clipped to the wire mesh or plastic filaments. To finish off, saw off any minor damage to the posts, nail up splits and ensure cut wire ends are sunk into the posts. Rabbit netting, chain link and palings Because so much of a warm weather mesh fence that is constructed with straining wires instead of top rails is dependent on wire, it’s very important that it’s used and finished properly. Staples should be put in diagonally and only driven home on straining posts. On other posts the wire should be free to move.Diamond mesh and rolled welded wire mesh fences in warmer climates don’t have top rails, but they still need something to support the wire mesh. When using a drivall be particularly careful that the post is upright and the people using it wear safety helmets. Straining and stapling We are offering high quality mild steel 4mm Diameter Straining Wire in various lengths. Key Features of our product: It’s usually the thinnest wire on the fence, at 1.6mm in diameter, and it’s used every foot or about 30 centimeters along each straining wire to secure the mesh. Like binding wire, tie wire is passed around the mesh and straining wire and then twisted together securely. Twisting and Finishing Wires

Straining wires are pulled tight using a tool that is sometimes called a “ monkey strainer” that uses chains and a ratchet mechanism to pull wires taut so they can carry the wire mesh. binding wire Tip: To view the product code and full product table on mobile please tilt your device to landscape.

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Lay out materials, describe any potential problems and indicate the positions of the straining posts (decide upon these now if you have not already done so). Demonstrate tool use When replacing or repairing a fence, try to leave old fence posts in place as they provide great habitat for lichens. The most efficient way to work is to form a production line, each team doing a specific job. Pairs can be swapped around at tea or lunch breaks. Between turning points, attach a temporary wire, low own, ensuring it is not too tight and does not catch the ground. This will then guide the siting of the intermediate posts. Driving in intermediate posts Work out the exact line of the fence and the positions of the straining posts. These are usually determined by the lie of the land (a post at every change of direction or major change of gradient), but straining posts can be up to 110m apart, although 50m is preferable.

NB Stone filling only works really well with square posts. If no stone is available use soil tamped down in layers. Post and rail fencingWhere the wire is along the side of the posts, either hammer the staples fully home on timber posts, or on cement posts, go along and using short pieces of straining wire, secure the wire at each post as shown right. Locate the straining and turning post holes accounting for changes in slope and direction of the fence line. Digging a post hole Concrete and Timber Posts - ensure that the straining wires are evenly spaced between top and bottom edge of the fencing (about 100cm down from the top of the fencing up 100cm up from the bottom). Loosely fit the end eyebolts and stretcher bar cleats with nuts (with large washers on both sides of the post), use two cleats and eyebolts with ring-nuts on intermediate straining posts.

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